Opening day in KwaZulu-Natal

After two days of rain, a bright sun ushered in June 11, 2010: opening day of Africa’s World Cup. A neighbor was  vuvuzela-ing at 7am. The girls played soccer outside while we did some chores around the house. Ate an early lunch, donned our makarapas, team shirts, vuvuzelas, grabbed a flag and headed out.

Thabo met us on campus to take us to Imbali township where he lives. Driving in the Izichwe Youth Football microbus, and joined by four Norwegians from Viking Stavanger Football Club (established in 1899) — one of the Izichwe sponsors — we joined the steady flow of ‘Proudly South African’ vehicles, wailing goats (aka vuvuzelas), drivers on cellphones and distracted cops. “I’ve never seen Pietermaritzburg like this,” said Thabo; “It’s like Christmas has arrived early!”

15 minutes later we were in Imbali, the largest black township in the city. The place was buzzing with excitement. The public viewing area was set up at the football ground of the Indumiso campus of the Durban University of Technology. A single covered grandstand, mostly grass pitch, and a stage and big screen in front of one of the goals. My daughters and I took the ball out and our impromptu game immediately attracted several local boys.

A wonderful a cappella group in Bafana jerseys performed, followed by a group of older women dancers and local kwaito stars BIG NUZ. Then something strange. As Bafana and Mexico stood solemnly on the pitch at Soccer City the crowd of several thousand in Imbali drowned out the national anthem courtesy of the infernal vuvuzelas. Shame!

A few minutes into the game we left for the comfort of our host’s home in the township’s oldest neighborhood, where in the 1980s the police battled the United Democratic Front against apartheid. We had a blast watching with Thabo’s family and friends (see photo). Exploded with joy at Tshabalaaaaala’s perfect strike early in the second half. Neighbors dancing in the street! Is a South African miracle about to happen?

Sadly, no. Captain Mokoena’s tired legs kept Marquez on side and the experienced Barcelona center back coolly finished his chance. 1-1. One more palpitation: Mphela hit the post with a minute left. Sho! Despite the disappointment, the consensus was that the draw was fair. Bafana are undefeated! As we drive off later that evening, the shebeens (taverns) are doing a roaring business, but for street carnivals we’ll have to wait for Uruguay on Youth Day, June 16 — the 34th anniversary of the Soweto Uprising.